Tuesday, 21 February 2017

February 20, 2017


This morning we climbed up the 145 stairs to Deck 11 for breakfast at 6 a.m., even before the sun rose.  The ship was anchored and the lifeboats were being lowered to transport people to shore as this is a tendered port. The temperature was about 24 C, the sky was part cloudy, but a bit of distant haze, the sea was calm and there was little wind.  Mount Batur could not be seen.
   By 7, we were waiting for the staff to begin to send the first groups from the Aurora Theater to the tender boats for the ride into Benoa, Bali harbour and the port’s cruise terminal. The boat ride took about 25 minutes accommodating 92 passengers.  Some people commented on the plastic debris floated in the harbour. We walked past the colourfully costumed female dancers, in red and gold costumes dancing to traditional music provided by eight musicians, through the terminal and found our 32 person capacity air conditioned bus. The dance performance was probably a traditional Barong dance of the ancient Legong style which is characterized by intricate finger movements. Then the nearly full bus waited 20 minutes for the final two people from our group, assigned in the theater, to make their way, the 600 meters from the pier, to the bus. 
    Bali is an Indonesian island located in the westernmost end of the Lesser Sumba Islands, between Java and Lombok. It is slightly larger than Prince Edward Island having a population of 4.2 million.  This Indonesian province has three large volcanoes and five smaller ones, kilometers of sandy beaches, wildlife and tropical forests.  It is a popular vacation destination for the residents of Western Australia.  83% of Bali’s population is Hindu, in contrast to the other Indonesian islands which practice the Muslim religion. In the 11th century when the Islamic religion was introduced to the neighbouring island of Java; the Hindu residents moved to Bali.  Indonesia has a population of 250 million, living on its 17,554 islands. It is the fifth largest country in the world in terms of population.  From east to west it is 190 km and from north to south it is 90 km wide. The social structure of Bali is based on a Caste System that our guide explained to us. About 80 % of the population is part of the third caste with the first and second caste as higher socially and economically. 
   Ari, our guide, wore native men’s clothes including a men’s sari. He distributed to the passengers traditional “basket hats” that can double as fans. We were warned to only drink water from sealed water bottles, which Ari provided. Ari explained that each village has three temples in the community and each family compound, within a village, has its own shrine to the three Hindu gods Brahma (underground), Shiva (main god), and Vishnu (ground), for honouring their ancestors, built in the northeast corner of the compound courtyard. Northeast is the place of the holy spirit (Shiva) in the Hindu religion.  Family compounds are assigned by the community and no one owns the community land.  Only in the capital of Denpasar can property be bought and sold.  People who were not born in Bali are not allowed to buy land.
    As the driver negotiated the rush hour traffic, we noticed that most the building has roofs of red tile, thatch or metal and constructed of concrete blocks covered in a smooth concrete white washed coat or brick. Looking down the narrower lanes reminded us of the hutong alleyways in Beijing, China.  There were many cars like Toyotas, Hondas and Nissans and even more Vespa scooters and small motor bikes that flitted in and out of the traffic. As we entered the capital, Denpasar, we noticed familiar names such as, Dunk’n Donuts, KFC, FedEx, DHL, McDonalds and Pizza Hut.
    The first stop was the Celuk Village's gold and silversmith workshops and store to view the silversmith’s creating intricate pieces and admire the jewelry and other items for sale in the store. The silver sold is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. After a chance to shop here, the bus continued to Kehen Temple in the city of Bangli. Bangli also is the name for one of the nine kingdoms of Bali. We passed the Tirta Gangga Water Palace in East Bali which was the former Royal Palace.
    Kehen Temple, or Pura Kehen, is a Hindu temple first built in the 13th century, but rebuilt every 25 years, to bury the five metals used in its construction.  It is part of the religious ceremonies. Kehen Temple is an important regional temple. Formerly, it was known as “Hyang Api” (God of Fire) temple, Brahmen who protects the temple. The stairs base has guardian statues which relate to the story of Ramayana. To enter the temple property your knees must be covered and a sarong is used to accomplish this for both men and women.  There are people selling beautiful sarongs for just $5 Australian; we were lucky that our guide provided the temporary use of sarongs.
It is 11 stories high and exhibits Chinese features due to influence from the marriage of a Balinese king to a Chinese princess in the 8th century. This marriage brought Chinese immigrants to Bali in the 8th century and with them they introduced rice to the culture. It is a staple grown in rice paddies around the region with two crops per year. From the base of the temple high up you can see an eleven storey tower with a Chinese influenced architecture. Balianese Hinduism is a mixture of ancient beliefs combined with 6th century Buddhism and 11th century Hinduism from Java.
      11 is a significant number in the Hindu religion and represents directions and gods which all have corresponding colours. East and West have special significance with East having white as its colour and yellow or golden being the colour for West.  These two colours were seen throughout the day on shrines.  The Swastika has been a Hindu symbol of peace for many centuries. It originally came from Iran through Europe and India. The first level of the temple required people to climb 45 stairs to the lower courtyard where a 700 year old Banyan tree grows. There are several intricately carved and decorated structures on this level.  Climb another 28 stairs to the second level and third level you arrive at the base of the eleven storey tower which rests on the back of a turtle.  This level has something to do with the balance of life and keeping everything stable.  The second level has a wall where cemented into it are blue and white English china dishes depicting English scenes.
      Back in the bus we travelled to the next stop, Penglipuran, a village of about 650 people living in the family compounds of traditional architectural styles. As it looked like rain later, Ari, issued a poncho to each passenger. (We did have our umbrellas with us.) Along the way we passed rice fields newly planted and flooded and fields where the crop was ready to be harvested.  It was a pleasant walk that sparked a memory of the ancient Roman streets of Pompeii that we saw last fall.  The group visited the village school which a collection of building for administration building and different grades forming a courtyard.  The public school system is free, but the children’s families have to pay for uniforms and books. The children are taught in the Malaysian language but speak Balinese at home and learn some English starting in grade three. The classrooms contained a wooden desk and chair for each child and blackboards or green boards, no computers were noticed in any of the classrooms.  The Malaysian language is spoken in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore.   Ari explained that in the Bali culture the left hand is considered unclean, so only use the right hand for giving and receiving, and for picking up food.  Children are forced to write with their right hand.  The children attend school six days per week from 7:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
      Then we returned to the bus for a drive to Kintamani Village for an Indonesian buffet lunch at Lakeview Resort which had a good view of active volcano, Mount Batur.  It erupted once in 1918 and villagers were advised to move to higher ground, but refused and the lava flow stopped just before a village temple.  Again in 1928 another part of the volcano erupted and villagers were told by government officials that they must move to higher ground, again they refused and the lava flow stopped just before a village temple.  But in 1972 a third eruption occurred and the villagers were forced to evacuate to higher ground and the lava flow destroyed the temple.  There was a minor eruption in 2001, which you can still see the black lava path.  Batur Lake is situated in the caldera of the first massive eruption.  We enjoyed the buffet with stir fried vegetables, chicken, fish and other good food.  Desert was a selection of Lychee fruit, black rice pudding with coconut milk and pumpkin cookies and tea or coffee.  After taking photos of the view we walked back to the bus as a sprinkle of rain started that evolved into a 20 minute down pour as the bus drove to our next stop at a painting gallery.
    The bus passed some coffee plantations and more rice paddies.  There are three different kinds of rice grown - White rice which is usually used for steamed rice; Red rice which has less carbohydrate and is better for the diabetics of the population; and Black rice which is used for pudding.
    As the bus turned into the parking lot for the Art Gallery, on the other side of the road was rice laid out on the ground to dry.  There were many colourful paintings of different styles in the art gallery.  The group finished their viewing in less than 30 minutes and we were off to the final stop of the day, the batik factory at Kesiman Village.
    At the batik factory we were shown the covered workshop where the crafts women created the batik patterns and how the waxing and dying process worked before browsing in the store.  There was a selection of cotton and silk fabric as well as shirts, blouses, dresses, kimonos, ties, scarves and children’s clothes.  Larry found a nice blue patterned shirt.  We were told that the prices were fixed and there was no bargaining at the store, but he was offered a discount of 20% off a price he considered was fair and willing to pay.
  Then it was time to return to the ship after an excursion of more than eight hours.  We passed the statue of Ramayana at the start of a bridge. It is a large white monument taking up the size of a hockey rink. 
   Since we needed to return to the ship by tender, we found the line though the Port of Benoa terminal building of about 500 people and growing.  We needed to show our Seapass cards to enter the terminal, next the usual security processing of the X-ray machine of contents of bags, backpacks and purses, then people.  Another line, for waiting in the shade before proceeding to the 600 meter walk along the pier to where the tenders docked. Then a 30 minute wait, on the pier under cloudy skies, but with ice water, from the ship, being offered several times. In the tender it was a 25 minute ride to the ship, but then a 25 minute wait for the tenders ahead of us to unload.  We entered our stateroom one hour and fifty minutes after we had been dropped off by the bus.
  Too late for our 6 p.m. reservation for dinner with Bob and Maureen, we cleaned up and climbed the 145 stairs to Deck 11 and the Windjammer buffet.  There was a nice selection of food – salads, hot pork loin, steamed rice, vegetarian paella, scalloped potatoes, hot green beans, chicken and buns.  The desserts selected were hazel nut mousse, orange almond slice and lemon vanilla mousse.  The ice cold beverage choice was water or tropical mango juice.
   During dinner, the ship’s captain made an announcement that everyone was just about on board and apologized for the length of time it took to get on board with the tendering process.  By 7 p, m,, the ship was leaving the Port of Benoa and sailing into the Indian Ocean on the way to Port Hedland, Australia.
    After finishing the meal, we stopped on Deck 6 to see the vocalist Don Winsor in the Aurora Theater early show, then decided to find Bob and Maureen.  They were just exiting the dining room. They had only returned to the ship and their stateroom barely in time to get ready for dinner.  We all went to the Lattetude café for cappuccinos or café mochas to catch up on the day.
    We returned to the stateroom to find the Cruise Compass for tomorrow advising the passengers that they needed to complete another Australian Immigration form since the ship will be returning to Australia after having been in Indonesia.  Customs officers will be onboard all day tomorrow to process the ship’s crew and passengers forms.
    Claire set to work to write the blog while Larry went to see how lucky he would be at the Casino.

Steps today   10,271














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